Fashion icon of month: Greta Garbo

I never said "I want to be alone". I only said "I want to be let alone". There is all the difference.

Greta Garbo

For the monlthy heading "Fashion icon of the month", today I want to pay tribute to the most "divine" of divas, true legend of cinema and my personal style muse. I'm talking about Greta Garbo, the personification of golden days of cinema, which myth is still today synonymous of charm, of elegance and mystery. Garbo owes her success not only to her talent, but also to her eyes that have been definied "the face of this century" and considered the most expressive look in the cinema history, still today. Entered in the world of cinema on tiptoe, she's estabilished in the Olympus of unattanaibles for talent, style and elegance.

Greta Lovisa Gustaffson was born in Stockholm in 1905. Since childhood, she has a closed and melancholy personality; she loves to do theatre, staging of private show in which she can wear make up, dress up and recite. As teenager she begins to study acting, but she's forced to stop because her father's death and the need to support the family. She starts to work as shop assistant and, occasionally, as a model at The Pub, the most important emporium of the city. Here, she mets Erik Petschler, who introduces her in the world of cinema making her get small parts in several movies until she gets more important roles, for which she has to do runks. She gets the scholarship for the Royal Dramatic Theatre Academy in Stockholm getting, after six months, an audiction with the director Mauritz Stiller, her mentor and pygmalion. Following the advice of the director, she changes her surname. Since that moment, Greta Lovisa Gustaffson gives way to Greta Garbo.

Greta Garbo and Mauritz Stiller

Thanks to Stiller she gets her first big success with the Gosta Berlings saga  (1924). Later, she acts in Die Freudlose Gasse (1925) by Whilelm Pabst that launches her among Hollywood stars. In the next 19 years of career, there are other movies and successes as The Temptress (1926), Flesh and the Devil (1926), Anna Christie (1930), Grand Hotel (1932) and Anna Karenina (1935), in which she moves with easy from seductress to spy, from queen of double game to murder, until she acts in the comedy Ninotchka (1939), in which you can see her smile for the first time.

Greta Garbo Flesh and the Devil (1926)

Greta Garbo in Anna Karenina (1935)

 

Despite a career on the rise, when she's just 36 years old, she decides to abandon the world of cinema. After four nominations at the Academy Awards, she gets an honorific Oscar in 1954 for her "unforgettable screen performances". After her withdrawal she lives a normal but melancholic life, aware that the world that made her rich and famous, didn't really love her. In 1990, at the age of 84 years old, she dies at the Manhattan Medical Center.

As well as for her career, also her life is conditioned by her reserved, indipendent and melancholic peronality. Her relationship with John Gilbert, star of silent movies, ends when he asks her to marry him and she, indipendent and autonomous, says no. However, the mutual respect between them doesn't stop and Greta will help him to boost her career. After her affair with the musician Leopold Stokowsky, become increasingly insistent the rumors about her bisexualityattributing to her several lovers like Mercedes de Acosta and Marlend Dietrich (her traditional rival on the screen). To these rumors, Garbo answers with the tighter reserve. Notoriously reserved, she won't ever grant any interview, shunning publicity don't attending at premieres.

Greta Garbo and John Gilbert



Style icon of her time, her influence on fashion world is still visible today, as strong as then. She accentuates her slim and slender figure with an elongated silhouette that gives her grace and elegance and, if for her roles she often wears skirts, dresses and pantsuits that give her an allure of a sophisticated femme fatale, in her free time she prefers to wear a comfort, informal and practical style. Unawares, she begins the Garbo style, a classic and androgynous style, that Giorgio Armani brings on catwalk for this f/w 2012.

Main element of her style are:

• masculine cut jackets;
• flared shirts, matched with ties;
• masculine cut pants;
• flat shoes, rarely you can see her wearing heels;
• big sunglasses, to hide her face to paparazzi;
• hats, often beret or cloche.

You can not miss an actress like Greta Garbo, capable with her only intesity of her look to enchant and seduce with an aura on veiled innocence that no one, after her, has been able to reproduce and that has been celebrated in 2010 (in occasion of the 20th anniversary of her death), by Salvatore Ferragamo Museum through an exhibition, called Il mistero dello stile (The mystery of the style), that examines the myth, highlighting the contemporary, the minimalism and the simplicity of her style.

Il mistero dello stile exhibition - Salvatore Ferragamo Museum

Il mistero dello stile exhibition - Salvatore Ferragamo Museum

...

And now one of the best scene in the history of cinema, taken from the film Grand Hotel played by the amzing Greta Garbo.

Fashion trends F/W 2012-13: Gothic style

Imagine a dark night, a mist that covers everuthing surrounds you and, in the distance, the verses of crwos and owls approaching... Are you afraid? Don't worry, I don't want to talk about horror movies or novels, but this image seemed perfect to me to describe you  one of trends for the next f/w season 2012-13. I'm talking about Gothic style (or Goth) that is so suggestive, mysterious and, why not, chic!

"The evolution of the species" by Ruven Afandador - Elle Italy (November 2008)

Gothic style, for some time, is a recurring trend of the winter season (you might think to the collections of Angelo Marani f/w 2009-10 or Lanvin f/w 2011-12), with its dark colors, first of all black, accompained by dark blue, violet, red and dark red. Go with lace, embroidery, damask fabrics, velvet, pale skin, emaciated lips, crosses and studds. This year, the trend has been proposed by several brands like Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Givenchy, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli, that brought on catwalk mysterious and seductive dark ladies.

Albino, Alessandro Dell'acqua, Angelo Marani f/w 2009-10

Alice Auaa, Atsushi Nakashima, Versace f/w 2012-13

Krizia, Gucci, Ann Demeulemeester f/w 2012-13

Gareth Pugh, Alexander McQueen, Givenchy f/w 2012-13

Viktor and Rolf, Roberto Cavalli, Rick Owens f/w 2012-13

We can't deny that there's something bewitching in goth style, perhaps thanks to the vampire figure, brought in vogue in last years by movies and novels (just think to the Twilight Saga), that, in some ways, gave it new life. And, even if I'm not a huge fan of total goth style, I have to admit that, if it's mixed well, it can be very sexy and elegant. I love lace garments and damask fabrics, they're so feminine and retrò. But just a dark garment or eccessory, like a cross charm or a baroque style ring (so close to goth style) to totally turn them! That's an example about I'd wear gothic style:

My fashion tip? Although attractive, goth style is not, alas, suitable to everyone. It's more a category of spirit then a true fashion trend: you have to have a dark soul to wear it as best as possible. But if you want to wear it anyway, you have to pay attention to not over do: the risk of carnival effect is always around the corner!

Anne Hathaway for Interview Magazine (septmber 2011)

To recreate this look, you can take inspiration by pieces like these dresses by Chanel and Nina Ricci or the collection f/w 2011-12 by Armani, Lanvin, Giambattista Valli, DSquared2, Alexander McQueen and Roccobarocco.

"Chic Gothic Glam" Vogue Italy (september 2011)

"Chic Gothic Glam" Vogue Italy (september 2011)

If you like Gothic style, that's my personal selection of goth style garments, low cost version, proposed by brands like Zara, Topshop and Promod.

What do you think about?

New York Fashion Week 2012

Is ended last september 13th the New York Fashion Week 2012, one of the most important events in fashion world, at which attended the biggest international fashion brands. You know fashion weeks are always exciting, but there's something special in NYFW that is difficult to explain in words. There's so much styles and movement and creativity and frenzy and a particular energy that you can't find anywhere else... being there gives you an idea of what fashion really is, how much work there's behind every collection, every show... it's a unique feeling.

As every year there was collections that I liked more and other that I liked less but, in general, I was pretty satisfied. These are, in my opinion, the best.

ALTUZARRA

 Rigorous and clean shapes are applied on jackets with a cape effect. The delicate and feminine silhouette mitigates the rigidity of shapes with a chic and elegant touch. For night, instead, the look turns in something more rich with drapery, gold fringes, embroidery and sparkle inserts. Sporty cuts and workwear are thought for a modern and elegant woman, mistress of her time.

BCBG MAX AZRIA

Linear cuts and sculptural shapes characterize dresses that caress softly the body. Crepe, silk and leather are perfectly mixed with laces and floral prints in this collection inspired by the pictures of Helmut Newton, evident in the choice of colors that go from black to white, from pink to ivory.

BENHAZ SARAFPOUR

Feminine and sought, delicate and elegant collection. The dresses with shaped lines are enriched by crystal inserts are mixed with basic pieces like a simple shirt or a pair of trousers for a sober and refined elegance.

BILLY REID

Urban style with oversized shapes. The fabrics are fluid and just leaning on body, while the  male pantsuits are still traditional, with mini, midi and maxi lengths.

CALLA

Spotlight is on prints, colors and materials for this collection signed by Calla. Silk, cotton, taffeta and with little touch of tweed make their appearance on dresses, top and skirts, with straight, flared and hourglass shapes, on which  dominate a pallet of colors that go from dark red to dark blue, form ivory to peaches, and multicolor prints.

CHARLOTTE RONSON

Marine inspiration for this collection, played on wavy shapes and blue, yellow and coral shades present on jackets, dresses and tops with short cuts that uncover the abdomen and hems that come to half thigh. The result is sexy but not exagerate and is made more feminine by peplum details that softly emphasize the silhouette.

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

This collection has a great summer taste, is refined and delicate in the shapes (linear, hourglass and peplum) that emphasize the silhouette, in the colors (from white to light blue, with delicate peach touches) and in materials (silk, chiffon and tulle). Dedicate to all modern romantics.

ERIN BY ERIN FETHERSTON

Girlish inspiration,  a little bit whimsical, for this collection S/S 2013. Tapered and hourglass silhouette characterize dresses enriched by sequin inserts, feather apllications and metal fabrics. To be stylish with verve.

DKNY

Basic style made more lively by a game of contrasts that distinguish the brand, with a sporty allure evident on the presence of sneakers and backpacks.

HELMUT LANG

Another marine inspiration here. Shiny fabrics and colors that remind the sea and its inhabitants. Thanks to a sporty touch, the silhouette is curved and athletic, the lenghts variables. Great the choice of prints that remind flowers and the wet effect that follows the sea style of the collection.

JASON WU

For this collection the designer was inspired by the game of contrasts: strenght/softness, severity/sensuality, evident in the mix of leather and lace, soft chiffon and massive corsets. Every element is on a perfect balance of elegance and seduction.

JILL STUART

Femininity and refinement: these are the key words of the s/s collection by Jill Stuart. Linear shilouette, sometimes flared, and precious fabrics like brocade, laces and embroidered chiffons, caress the body with delicacy and elegance.

JUAN CARLOS OBANDO

A delicate retro touch and 30's style characterize this collection with a high rate of femininity and elegance. Soft fabrics like silk, crepe and chiffon, are masterfully matched with graphic prints (with an hypnotic effect) that dominate the dresses for a glamour and suggestive effect.

LELA ROSE

For this season the brand proposes to us a fresh style. Prints cobweb effect are translated and reinterpreted thanks to the help of fabrics like tweed, jersey, silk and lurex while the ladylike soul of the collection is evudent on the soft cocktail dresses, in delicate silk and organza, based on a pallet of colors that go from pistachio green to ivory, from turteldove to peach.

MARISSA WEB

A feminine and versatile collection of which pieces are often monochrome, but easily mixable each other. A lively and colored touch is evident in the printed outfits, with a tydye effect.

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

In my opinion the style of this collection is a middle between Alexander McQueen and Mary Katrantzou's style both for shapes and prints. Anyway, this is a nice collection, feminine and elegant but also practical and versatile, based on pallet of colors played on blue, white and purple shades.

NONOO

Clean lines, straight and hourglass shapes and a simple and feminine style. These are the main elements of this collection. With a pallet of colors that go from butter color to navy blue, from cherry red to pink, and a combination of solid colors and prints , this collection is dedicate to those who eant to be glamour without giving up to an easy mood.

PETER SOM

The designer confirms even this time his love for a minimal chic style. Floral prints and pastel colors, but also lace shirts and soft and aflutter dresses are thought for the modern It Girls, romantic and glamorous.

TADASHI SHOJI

The collection repeats, from many points of view, the elements of the last f/w collection. Feminine and elegant is a tribute to lace and its every declinations, in the midi and maxi dresses, it's tought for the most romantic fashionistas.

THAKOON 

The woman proposed by Thakoon is romantic and feminine. She is a dreamer who loves bucolic prints  and shows off her modern side in the choice of important volumes. A touch of eccentricity is evident in the proportions and in the design of the clothes, romantic and contemporary.

TOCCA

A shy femininity, sometimes hided, is shown off by the brand. A woman who loves the confidence of monochrome dress but who dares with lively colors like yellow, orange and electric blue: dynamic and sure of herself, she doesn't need of particular dresses to show off her femininity.

TRACY REESE

A collection with a very strong personality: frsh, colorful, lively and chic, made by basic but super glamorous pieces. 

VICTORIA BECKHAM

This collection contains every trends for s/s season 2013. Linear and ladylike is a tribute to subdued elegance, that doesn't need frenzy.

ZAC POSEN

The designer made a walk in the past, in the fabulous 40's. For this collection the designer proposes snug dresses with a delicious timeless taste, characterized by floral prints, rustling and fluttering shapes, enriched by lively ruffles.

What's your favourite collection?